Congresos a la americana

Mi amiga (y fiel comentarista de este Blog) María Alecia me mandó el LINK de este artículo (perdonen que no lo traduzca) en donde aparte de el hecho maravilloso de que no paren de haber congresos, da risa que Adriá pasa a ser oficialmente Adri.


BY MADELEINE MARR
mmarr@MiamiHerald.com
You didn't need a lifetime subscription to Gourmet to recognize the names on the chefs' jackets at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival's $600-a-person dinner for Ferran Adri, the Spanish creator of the incredible edible foam:

José Andrés, an Adri protégé whose Washington spots include the white-hot Zaytinya; Parisian pastry whiz Pierre Hermé; Thomas Keller of The French Laundry and Per Se; Gray Kunz of Cafe Gray (formerly Lespinasse); Nobu Matsuhisa, with eponymous sushi shrines from Milan to Miami Beach; Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Jean-Georges, Jo-Jo and Spice Market.

''This is a night that we all work toward -- a once-in-a-lifetime event,'' said Marc Ehrler, executive chef at the Loews Miami Beach Hotel, where the 600-guest, seven-course, over four-hour meal took place Saturday night. Ehrler also orchestrated the army of 125 waiters and prepped the decadent sixth course, confit of beef tenderloin with a mascarpone and Gorgonzola truffle ``opera.''

STUNNED BY FETE

The guest of honor looked positively slack-jawed himself when he entered the Americana Ballroom for the pre-dinner reception by chefs Norman Van Aken and Emeril Lagasse (conch ceviche, Spanish tortilla, pig skins in a blanket).

''I am humbled beyond words,'' said the Barcelona-born Adri, 43, with a huge grin and a charming lispy Catalonian accent. ``I don't know why they would do all this for me.''

Suddenly, the diminutive chef is cloaked by a large, lean figure in a smart suit. Big hug. It's Anthony Bourdain, Food Network star and host of the documentary Decoding Ferran Adri, a glimpse into the cook-cum-scientist's lab that was screened for festivalgoers earlier in the day.

Before Adri is whisked away, the big question has to be asked:

``Ferran, did you come hungry?''

``Ay, sí.''

Good thing.

The first course is Andrés' Organized Caesar Salad: A plate dotted with three little tubes, one with a raw egg yolk on top, lying beside a pasty orange dollop of sea urchin.

Nearby, dozens of waiters, Loews chefs and Florida International University culinary students hunch like microsurgeons over dishes of raw Japanese snapper. It's Matsuhisa's turn: Usuzukuri, paper-thin slices of sashimi drizzled with dried shiro (sweet) miso, yuzu juice and, in a nod to Spain, extra-virgin olive oil. The flavors burst and bounce off each other divinely.

TONY PB&J

Over in his plating area, Keller is readying Peanut Butter & Jelly -- terrine of moulard duck foie gras with roasted Virginia peanut tuile (a sort of cracker) and Concord-grape preserves.

''I wanted to go where few people have gone before, even though that sounds like Star Trek,'' says the soft-spoken Keller. ``To create reference points and memories of great pleasures, which is what [PB&J] was to me as a child.''

Keller's obscenely rich bundle of nutty, deep jolts -- unlike anything Mom ever packed into a lunchbox -- is a hot topic among diners.

''Simple but stellar,'' says Creighton Peet, a Cape Cod chef who says he comes to the festival for inspiration. ``T.K. is like my Obi-Wan.''

''I worship Thomas Keller,'' chimes in Laurie Ziegler, an entertainment marketer from L.A. She's just finished Gray Kunz's warm salad of crabmeat and green papaya with kaffir lime and lemon-grass bouillon.

There's more to come from everyone's favorite unpronounceable chef: Jean-Georges Vongerichten's slow-cooked crunchy rabbit seasoned with kanzuri -- Japanese chiles fermented under snow for six months.

How to top off a meal to end all meals?

Turn to Parisian prince of pastries Pierre Hermé. His offering, Rouge et Noir, is a layer of love -- caramel puff pastry with wafer-thin kisses of raspberry jelly, balsamic vinegar, almonds, pistachios and dark chocolate dusted with French sea salt.

Diners fall silent, crinkling their foreheads and nodding in astonishment. Then, a murmured refrain: ``Oh God, God.''

''Would I order such a rich dessert -- or for that matter, rabbit, urchin or foie gras on a normal day? No,'' says Akasha Richmond, a private chef who cooks organic for Tinseltown stars. ``I have salad with low-fat dressing.''

She pats her board-flat stomach and sums up the evening:

''But when Michelangelo or Picasso puts a plate in front of you, you eat it,'' she says. ``That's why we're all here.''

Comentarios

Maria Alecia Izturriaga ha dicho que…
Palabra cierta. No había leído este post y ya te había dejado un comentario en el anterior.
Otro detalle divertido, aparte del nombre, te cuento que un tipo andaba como loco ofreciendo por todos lados dos boletos en un crucero de una semana a cambio de dos entradas para esa noche. ¡Eso es un fan!

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